![]() This divides the room into four sections. Repeat the process, finding the halfway points on the adjacent wall and the wall across from it and again chalking a line between the points.Snap a chalk line connecting the points from one wall to its opposite.Once the underlayment is down, measure the length of the wall at floor level near the entry door and mark the halfway point on the floor.Secure the underlayment pieces together with packing tape.Lay down the vinyl underlayment pieces and cut them to fit the room with scissors or a utility knife, leaving a 1/4-inch gap around the room's perimeter.Once complete, wait a day or so to walk atop the tile and to clean up the grout lines a bit more.Wipe off excess with a slightly damp sponge. Apply the grout with a rubber float, coating the edge areas of the vinyl rather than the center. If you are working with tile that requires grout, use the type of grout recommended by the tile manufacturer.Once you've set all the tile, smooth it into the adhesive using a 100-pound roller.For areas where cuts are required, dry-fit the piece and cut it as needed before removing the backing. Make sure they land directly where you want them, as they cannot be repositioned. If the tiles are peel-and-stick tiles, note the arrow on the back side indicating orientation, peel the backing off and then smooth down the tiles onto the floor. Start setting the tile into the adhesive from the door side of the room, working your way into the room and being careful not to step in the adhesive.If the tiles are the peel-and-stick type, skip the adhesive information. Apply the adhesive recommended by the manufacturer using a trowel at the side of the room farthest from the door.If this throws off your chalk grid on the floor, remark it with chalk of another color. ![]() Trace any narrow tiles on their respective locations on the underlayment and also plot a sheet of graph paper so you know which tiles go where.
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